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If anyone wants to edit this page, fine: please make sure you can actually verify yourself the information you are putting in here. Provide links, actually have use of a WHR-HP-G54 to test yourself. Every edit I've done here is information which has been tested with my equipment numerous times.

S2s2 11:11, 28 March 2010 (CEST)

This is notice I'm planning on fixing up some typos on method number one of antenna modification-RP-SMA addition ('my' method, using the CONREVSMAxxx part from the people over at LINX),

and redoing method #2, as radioman193 on the DD-WRT forum comments there are problems with what the poster of 'method 2' as of 2010 03 27, did. For one, he is claimed to have connected his second antenna line too far from the signal source. When it's time, I will *move* that section, method #2, over to the Talk/Discussion page, and replace it with a better (IMHO) version.

2009 01 I actually have a WHR-HP-G54, and have verified it myself (it surprises me that people would try to contribute otherwise). I find that setting boardflags=0x2758 (RC4 default) results in better receive sensitivity than boardflags=0x3758.

With 0x2758, my WHR-HP-G54 reports a client signal quality around 95%. When I change boardflags to 0x3758 (exact same client, exact same location, nothing changing except the boardflag change), the WRT reports a client signal quality around 85%.

I also find that simply making the nvram commit seems to almost immediately have an effect on the sensitivity ratings displayed in the status screens. So the reboot might not be necessary (after reboot the status settings continue to display the same data as right before the reboot).

[edit] old 'Method 2' of adding antenna connection

This was cut out of the WHR-HP-G54 page. SEE THE NOTES DIRECTLY ABOVE. Several problems with the 'method 2' described above. 'Radioman193' described a better method, however he didn't have pics/good pics of what he was doing.

[edit] Method 2 of bringing the internal antenna outside

You can do this by cutting the internal antenna out of the circuit and adding a bit of hardline to an external connector like a reverse SMA (same as the connector that came with your Buffalo). Do not attempt this mod if you are not proficient at soldering and the use of good static handling procedures. I use a workbench that is static grounded and a static wist strap at all times while handling the board. I know I don't need to tell you that this will void your warranty and you assume all responsibility if you brick your device.

The first step is to disable your router and remove the board. Remove the coating around the strip line that runs up to the etched antenna (see photos below). Once you have remove the coating cut the strip line where it bends to go toward the stripline antenna. Use a bit of UT141 hardline (or any small diameter high quality coax rated up to 2.5GHz) and a reverse SMA connector to make up a coax jumper. I used flex UT141 for this project, because it bends much easier. Make sure you cover the UT141 with a bit of heat shrink so that you do not short out any components on the board. Solder the outer shield of the hardline to the ground section with the center conductor facing the stripline and chip marked R18. Bend the center connector of the hardline down to the center of the stripline just after the small chip R18 making sure that the center conductor does not come in contact with the outer. Make sure you keep the center conductor of the coax as short as you can. Verify that the center connector did not short to the outer, there is a small pad that makes soldering the center conductor very difficult. I removed this pad with an small razor knife. This connection needs to maintain 50 ohms of impedance throughout the path so don't glob the solder on, it should look like there almost isn't any solder at all on the connection. This chip is either a capacitor or a 0 ohm resistor. I've done 2 of these routers and each was different even though it was marked R18 on both boards. Basically the stripline is a 50 ohm ladder line etched on the board, so as long as you use 50 ohm coax like UT141 you won't need to make a matching circuit. Enjoy this mod and be careful not to over heat the components on the board when soldering the outer conductor. Clean up your soldering with 90% or better Isopropyl Alcohol. Before you resemble your router make sure the Alcohol is dry.

NOTE: I cleaned up the connections after I took these pictures. Make sure your connections do not look like these pics. You should be able to see shinny solder connections without and junk clinging to the solder. Image:WHR-HP-G54_add_antenna_a_(Medium).JPG Image:WHR-HP-G54_add_antenna_b (Medium).JPG Image:WHR-HP-G54_add_antenna_c (Medium).JPG